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HomeFoodWilliam Sitwell reviews sō-lō, Ormskirk: 'Like having dinner in a well-organised post...

William Sitwell reviews sō-lō, Ormskirk: ‘Like having dinner in a well-organised post office’

You won’t find fault with Tim Allen’s cooking, but I needed some atmosphere

I was solo in sō-lō, wondering what it means and thinking it might be like Häagen-Dazs (an American ice cream with a made-up name to make you think it was crafted by an eminent Danish family whose fortune came from the invention of a chocolate-chip pistachio ice cream and whose marital, ultra-blonde escapades would duly appear in Hello! magazine).

Anyone can say Häagen-Dazs, but no one can spell it. As it is with Solo, who can’t even agree the spelling on their own website. It’s Solo, Sōlō, or sō-lō. You can take your pick according to your mood. It can be one of those nights when you want the whole hog, so you go for accents AND a hyphen.

Perhaps that’s how a wild night rocks in Aughton, West Lancashire, a gentrified village near Liverpool. Here, as befits a certain style of dining that comes with a Michelin star – and this is a brand new and sparkling one for 2023 – you’ll find food of precision, neatness and exactitude. It comes at you in the evenings via a compulsory six-course tasting menu (with an optional cheese course) and is a nimble and accomplished dance of local ingredients cooked with a European flourish.

The room is quiet; service is restrained, polite and measured. The dining spaces that wrap around the ground floor of this stone-clad terraced house are coloured muted cream with gentle green panelling.

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