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HomeSourcesthetimes.co.ukTrondheim guide: Norway's affordable coastal city

Trondheim guide: Norway’s affordable coastal city

Having been the Viking capital for more than 200 years, coastal Trondheim now claims the Norwegian foodie crown. With its fabulous produce and creative chefs, it’s a brilliant spot for a gourmet weekend whether your preference is a shrimp sandwich and a craft beer from a quayside cafe or Michelin-starred Nordic feasting.

Between meals there’s plenty to do and see in this walkable, laid-back and friendly university city, from fjordside saunas to engaging museums and the 18th-century wooden royal palace that inspired the creators of the Disney film Frozen. The recent drop in the value of the Norwegian krone makes the country much more affordable than you might imagine, and Trondheim is easy to reach from the UK, with direct flights from Gatwick.

● Moody and magnificent Nidaros is the world’s northernmost medieval cathedral – built over the (probable) burial place of King Olav II, a Viking warrior and the patron saint of Norway – and still a place of pilgrimage. The building has been nipped and tucked over the centuries, with some quirky additions – the face of the Archangel Michael statue on the northwest tower was modelled on that of Bob Dylan, according to the sculptor. Stump up £5 on top of the usual £9 entry fee to climb the 172 steps to the top of the central tower to take in views of the city or £19 to explore the crypt. Get in free by turning up for a service or the Saturday lunchtime organ concert; the acoustics are incredible (nidarosdomen.no).

● A trip on the old-school Grakallbanen tram, which runs from St Olavs Gate, guarantees knockout views of the city and the Nidelva River that winds through it as well as bragging rights on having ridden on the world’s northernmost tram. The journey takes about twenty minutes and the final stop is Lian, the starting point for pine-scented forest hikes in the Bymarka Nature Reserve or a picnic next to Lianvatnet Lake (single tram tickets £3; AtB Mobillett app).

● Bakklandet, the pretty 18th-century wharf area along the Nidelva, is perfect for a mooch on flower-filled cobblestone streets, discovering one-of-a-kind shops such as the master tea blender Gravraak Teatelier (gravraakteatelier.no) and the cosy cafe Baklandet Skydsstation. The painted wooden houses and warehouses lining the waterfront are fabulously photogenic, and there’s the only bicycle escalator in the world (it’s not hard to see why it didn’t catch on), at the bottom of the hill next to Old Town Bridge.

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