Mixing culture, charm and cool, Dunedin deserves a spot on every itinerary
My Dunedin Saturday began amid the foodie bustle of the weekly Otago Farmers’ Market in a historic train station yard, and ended among entranced nature lovers watching tiny blue penguins scamper across a moonlit beach whose Maori name means “echoing cry of the sea”.
In between, I discovered A-list art in libraries, lunched in mural-clad warehouses, and reflected in the calm of a Chinese Scholar’s Garden. No wonder this multifaceted city has a central hub called the Octagon.
One of New Zealand’s oldest cities – and for a century its richest and most prestigious – it was envisioned by its early-19th-century Scottish settlers as an antipodean homage to their homeland capital (Dunedin derives from the Gaelic name for Edinburgh), right down to neighbourhood names: Corstorphine, Morningside, Portobello.
But while its august Caledonian template saw Dunedin’s streets arrayed with dazzling Victorian, Edwardian and art-deco architecture, it has woven a weft of hedonism and laid-back distinctiveness into its Instagram-friendly vistas – as if Edinburgh had created a love child with Brighton.