As Passalacqua in Lake Como is ranked number one on a list of the 50 best hotels on earth, our expert recounts what it’s like to stay there
When I stayed for a couple of nights at Passalacqua last October, not long after it had opened, I arrived at the hotel very late in the evening. By that time, it was pitch black and I could make out little of the property. Most guests had already retired to their rooms, and after a swift check-in, I was accompanied to my suite. I was asleep in minutes, tucked under silky-soft sheets. Little did I know what awaited the following morning.
At an awards ceremony in London last night, the hotel was ranked number one in The World’s 50 Best Hotels. This is the first time that 50 Best, which has produced annual restaurant and bar lists in the same format since the early 2000s, has ventured into the world of travel. Almost 600 industry experts (hoteliers, travel journalists, consultants and seasoned luxury travellers) around the world were asked to name the seven hotels, in order of preference, that had impressed them the most from April 2021-23. For an independently owned hotel that has been open little more than a year to have scooped the top spot, when no other Lake Como hotels even made the list, is really quite something. But thinking back to my stay I was not surprised.
Lake Como has no shortage of five-star hotels with glorious gardens, yet the grounds at Passalacqua are something else, tumbling to the shore in a series of sublime terraces, each impeccably manicured and with its own distinct character. Opening my room’s shutters revealed a sliver of this verdant haven, with glorious lake vistas further elevating the panorama. But it wasn’t until later on, when I headed off to explore the grounds, that it dawned on me what a delight they really are.
On the uppermost terrace is a stylish swimming pool shaded by green parasols with fabrics by La DoubleJ, a Milan-based brand that repurposes vintage prints in quirky, lively designs. On the level below, you’ll find chickens frolicking and clucking as they roam among fruit trees. A bocce (boules) court occupies the terrace below alongside a kitchen garden. While the atmosphere is effortlessly stylish and the grounds manicured to perfection, there’s a decidedly laid-back feel to the place. Probably because this is an entirely family-run affair.