Few things can make a man feel quite so underdressed for dinner as having to be buzzed through the imposing iron gates of a five-star Scottish castle hotel. Should I be wearing a tux? A kilt? A tux and a kilt?
Built for the deputy lord-lieutenant of Ayrshire in 1870 on the southwest coast, above the village of Ballantrae, the stately Scots baronial pile of Glenapp – rooms from about £300 a night – eventually comes into view atop a long and winding driveway, behind tightly trimmed hedgerows and manicured monkey puzzle trees. A young concierge in a tartan suit awaits with further directions to the castle’s new contemporary fine-dining restaurant, which in the literal and figurative sense stands that wee bit removed from the
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