NEWS… BUT NOT AS YOU KNOW IT
Despite its tiny size, Madeira is criss-crossed by thousands of miles of water channels. As these lavadas run through the Portuguese island, so does life – green and bursting.
Nature is everywhere in the capital, Funchal. The trees are from all corners of the world, after centuries of the trading hub collecting anything passing by, and the banana plants yield local varieties sweeter than any I have ever tried. When my group arrives, May’s flower festival is starting to wind down but the streets are still paved with blooms.
Looming above are the ancient peaks, covered with UNESCO-protected laurel forests. The land is generous. On Madeira, there is no such thing as a bad farmer, as an off-road tour guide says as he points out wild pumpkins, and a lost hiker wouldn’t go hungry.
Flying fish accompany the boat journey from the airport to central Funchal, where I’m staying at the Barcelo Funchal Oldtown hotel, a stone’s throw from the Gothic cathedral. The Barcelo’s a charming base, with its crisp local-inspired furnishings and balconies overlooking the indigo sea. And it boasts mouth-watering food at its restaurant, Noz: fresh fish ceviche from the market for just €13, along with tuna, octopus and slow-cooked pork options – even condensed-milk coffee.