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‘I went in search of gorillas, hippos and turtles in lesser-known wildlife haven’

One woman went off the beaten track to have the adventure of a lifetime, seeing gorillas, hippos, turtles and more in the wilds of the West African nation

Trying to identify animal tracks in the wild is always exciting – and these were unmistakably a hippo’s. If we were attempting to spot one of Africa’s most dangerous beasts from the safety of a game-viewing vehicle in broad daylight, this would have been fun. But we were on foot. On a beach. At 2am.

Suddenly, seeing one of Gabon’s fabled “surfing hippos” didn’t seem very sensible. But, after scanning the waves with his torch, eco-guide Ghislain said: “Let’s go.” I’d seen him pad through the bush barefoot, stare down an elephant, and now shrug off a possible encounter with a hippo in the dark… “The animals know that I come in peace,” he said.

There are certainly enough animals in this country on the west coast of Central Africa to test that mantra. More than 85% of Gabon – slightly bigger than the UK, but with just 2.3million people – is covered in forest, which is home to an estimated 30,000 lowland gorillas and chimps, 90,000 forest elephants, buffalo, mandrills, bongo and sitatunga antelopes, leopards, golden cats, red river hogs… and humpback whales can be seen offshore from July to September.

The vastness of the country’s forests mean exact numbers are difficult to determine – and most of the animals actually live outside the designated national parks.

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