Spain is a lot more than package holidays, crowded costas and roiling heat. It’s also famous for its serene countryside dotted with casas rurales (country houses) and its quiet stretches of coastline, from the pristine coves of Asturias in the north to Malaga’s lesser-visited southern neighbour Cadiz, dubbed Cadizfornia for its long golden beaches and watersport-friendly breezes.
The best way to enjoy it all is to travel the Spanish way. The cities empty at this time of year for good reason – Madrid can easily reach temperatures of 36C in August, but is lovely from September onwards. In summer, Spaniards make for the emerald-hued countryside and white-sand beaches of the north – Galicia is a favourite. Here the weather is more changeable, but with temperatures in the 20s, it can be a good ten degrees cooler than on the coast further south.
Summer is long, too. Beach spots like the Costa del Sol still enjoy average temperatures of 27C in September, just without the crowds. Consider a stay at the new La Fonda Heritage Hotel in Marbella’s old town and blend a little culture with still-warm seas right into October.
Mild late summer days are also ideal for rural escapes, following hiking and biking trails that weave their way around the mountain scenery, to the Unesco-listed city of Cuenca. Go wine tasting in the cava-soaked Penedes region, just south of Barcelona. Or head to the seaside city of Valencia for long terrace lunches, days spent exploring its six mile-long city park set in an old riverbed, and nights at a luxurious former palace, Palacio Vallier.
Grand Parador hotels are fantastic for old-school luxury, but a simple cottage in Galicia or a boutique hotel on the Costa Blanca out of peak season can be just as charming. These are the places the locals love.