More than murals: Connecting with Malaysia through its contemporary arts

Tucked away in the quiet commercial enclave of Kampung Attap, near downtown Kuala Lumpur, sit three interconnected shophouses painted stark white with steel grey trim. The nondescript exterior couldn’t be further from what lies within: an ecosystem of artists, designers, researchers, archivists, advocates, artisans and musicians who have transformed what was once a decaying four-storey 1950s shoplot into a thriving creative hub. Named after an association of immigrants from Zhongshan in southern China who once gathered on the first floor, The Zhongshan Building is one of Malaysia’s best examples of young creatives coming together to build communities far bigger than the sum of their parts, while breathing new life into heritage buildings that may have been destined for demolition. Pictures of Things by Gan Siong King in The Back Room, part of The Zhongshan Building. When one thinks of Malaysian art, most likely what comes to mind are the murals in Georgetown, traditional batik, Peranakan embroidery and ethnic motifs. But as the 30 tenants at this creative hub deftly illustrate, the country has a burgeoning contemporary arts scene that embraces Malaysia’s cultural diversity and celebrates its heritage while taking bold new steps. ‘I think the language you speak shapes the way you think, the way you see things, the way you do things,’ says Zhongshan’s co-founder Liza Ho. ‘In that sense, when you’re surrounded by people who speak different languages, you’re surrounded by different types of knowledge. This has expanded the way we do things and make things, and that’s the beauty of collaborating with so many different people. It’s quite enriching.’ For those wanting to explore alternative arts both cerebral and playful, from screen printing and archival graphic design to letterpress stationery and underground music, Ho says Zhongshan is a good place to start. She encourages travellers to also visit the National Art Gallery of Malaysia, the Islamic Arts Museum and Ilham Gallery, a private art museum prioritising public engagement. Also on the list of KL’s essential destinations for the culturally curious is UR-MU (Urban Museum), a quirky contemporary art museum in Bukit Bintang. The National Art Gallery of Malaysia celebrates both Malaysian and international artists. Looking forward, looking back Not far from Zhongshan lies another stellar example of a heritage building rejuvenated as a vibrant creative hub. Once an art deco 1,000-seat cinema built in the 1940s, REXKL is now a cavernous venue for events, exhibitions, performances, and screenings, skirted by independent retail and food and beverage outlets. Much of the original structure has been preserved, and literature lovers who aren’t afraid of heights will revel in the bookstore’s maze-like design that tessellates around the old cinema’s towering walls. Lim Wei-ling, president of Malaysian Heritage Trust, an organisation committed to the conservation and preservation of the country’s built heritage – who is also one of its most prominent supporters of contemporary art – says the two are ‘aligned on so many levels’. For the past 20 years, she has nurtured the development of Malaysian artists at her spaces Wei-Ling Gallery and Wei-Ling Contemporary in Kuala Lumpur’s colourful Brickfields district and exhibited their work at major international events. ‘I think it’s imperative we retain what we have left of our history as a collective narrative of a place and its people,’ Wei-ling says. Making every place a platform Over in Kuching, capital of Sarawak in Malaysian Borneo, the multidisciplinary creative agency Borneo Laboratory has also breathed new life into a worn and weathered building. Formerly a supermarket in the heart of the city that now comprises a studio, performance and exhibition spaces, pop up bar and cafe, Think & Tink is a self-described ‘mind factory’, a place to ‘think creatively and act daringly for the community’. From its rooftop sprouts a plywood pavilion of geometric insect wings that shelter the edible garden below. At night, softly illuminated in blue, the structure glows like a shimmering kaleidoscope of Ulysses butterflies. Borneo Laboratory is a space to showcase new talent and conceptualise new creations. Photo credit: jeephotography.com Founded by architect and curator Wendy Teo, Borneo Laboratory works with local, regional and international artists to produce exhibitions, large-scale installations and participatory events. Linked through themes of exploring ‘Borneo aesthetics’, ancestral wisdom and respectfully moving forward with traditional craft skills, they often take place outside galleries in public spaces. For Teo, ensuring art is accessible and inclusive requires ‘making every place a platform’ for creative expression and collaboration. Back in the nation’s capital, travellers are also likely to encounter arts in unexpected areas. Since 2019, the city’s administration has worked closely with the urban rejuvenation organisation Think City to transform downtown Kuala Lumpur into a creative and cultural district, with the goal of encouraging the growth of these industries and drawing local and international visitors. From the city’s inaugural design festival to open-air concerts, hundreds of events are being held alongside heritage building restoration, the development of green corridors, and the enhancement of public amenities and transport facilities. Think City, part of Borneo Laboratory, also works on urban rejuvenation. For much of this year, commuters and travellers making their way through the Pasar Seni MRT Station, gateway to Chinatown and KL’s heritage precinct, were greeted with radiant sunlight refracting through transparent yellow structures. As they descended or ascended the stairs of Gate A, above their heads curved static drips of joyous colour, the work of architectural designer Pamela Tan. Her installation Sunnyside Up was part of the Think City initiative Arts on the Move, established in 2016 with the aim of connecting culture and transit. ‘For Malaysians, encountering public installations can help foster a deeper appreciation for art and design culture, and perhaps even inspire more people to pursue creative endeavours,’ says Tan. ‘For visitors to the country, experiencing public installations can offer a unique insight into Malaysia’s culture and identity, and enhance their overall travel experience. Ultimately, the hope is that public installations can contribute to the growth and development of Malaysia’s artistic and cultural landscape.’ Witnesses to their time Some travellers may be wondering if a common thread has been woven into this landscape. After two decades of cultivating the industry, Lim Wei-ling is the ideal person to answer: ‘My observation is that Malaysian artists generally veer towards making work that is imbued with texture and colour – perhaps this has to do with the environment within which they work,” she says. ‘Malaysian artists are concerned about issues happening around them, whether more local or regional or universal. Our artists are making art that enables viewers to understand where they are coming from as witnesses to their time.’ The Zhongshan Building against a backdrop of Merdeka 118. Photo credit: Imran Sulaiman As KL-ites and travellers look towards the opening of the world’s second-tallest building, Merdeka 118, a 118-storey skyscraper containing commercial, residential, hotel and recreation spaces not far from The Zhongshan Building, they can be assured of even more opportunities to engage with contemporary arts. In 2022, Zhongshan received a grant from the tower’s developer to hold a music performance and an interactive exhibit exploring two of Kuala Lumpur’s major landmarks: the restored historical site of Stadium Merdeka and the architectural triumph of Merdeka 118. Zhongshan’s co-founder Liza Ho says that in Malaysia, ‘more and more people can see that arts bring people together.’ Hero image credit: Imran Sulaiman