IT IS not so much the number of graves that hits you as the number of cemeteries.
Some are small, such as Bethune, where we stopped for a now great, great grandfather; some are enormous, like Etaples, where thousands upon thousands more are commemorated.
And all are immaculate, thanks to the work of the Commonwealth War Graves Commission (CWGC).
This 105-year-old institution – originally the Imperial War Graves Commission – has a fascinating backstory, and you don’t need to be a history buff to get to grips with it.
A new visitor experience at the War Graves HQ near Arras, in northern France, makes it accessible to all.